Ascension Weekend in a Benedictine Monastery

Into the deep end

Evening starts to fall as we, eight students and three lecturers, gather at the Benedictine monastery in Chevetogne, Belgium. It will not be a quiet introduction to this remarkable place. We are immediately thrown into the deep end of the Byzantine liturgy when we take part in the two-and-a-half-hour vigil on the eve of Ascension Day. As the rain pours over the roof, an overwhelming stream of experiences — new to many of us — pours over us as well. Icons gaze at us from every direction, one ritual after another unfolds before our eyes, we are incensed several times, and from our right rises the continuous chanting and prayer of monks who achieve an impressive degree of incomprehensibility. Meanwhile, we try in vain to work out when we are supposed to stand, bow, or make the sign of the cross.

Sharing experiences

The next morning, as a group, we discuss our first experiences. Apart from a collective unfamiliarity with the Byzantine liturgy, everyone experienced the service differently. One person became overstimulated, another was intoxicated by the beauty. One wanted to know exactly what was happening, another mainly felt estrangement. The question of what remains with us most also produced different answers: the chanting of the monks, the prayer for the worldwide church, receiving the Eucharist, or the moment when one of the fathers burst into laughter during the prayers and the Divine Liturgy became a little more human.

Byzantine and Latin liturgy. Both rites proved to be worlds apart(Source: Pieter Camfferman)

Alongside the festive celebration of Ascension Day, we also participated in the daily offices. What makes the monastery in Chevetogne unique is that not only the Byzantine but also the Latin liturgy is celebrated — simultaneously, in the monastery’s other church. The two rites proved to be worlds apart. The Latin church is sober, we sit more often, and we can follow the sung and spoken texts in a booklet. It is fascinating how both rites require a very different kind of participation. Each rite appeals to different senses and touches people in its own way. For some, the Latin liturgy reached the heart more deeply; for others, it was the Byzantine liturgy. Yet despite these differences in experience, everyone took away something from these impressive services in this beautiful place that touched, inspired, or provoked reflection.

Valuable encounter with Père Philippe

Between the prayer services, there was plenty of time. The mountainous landscape surrounding the monastery was irresistible and invited us to enjoy it several times on foot, alone or with others. We also filled our time with good conversations, losing ourselves in a good book, or gathering icons from the monastery shop. A particularly valuable encounter was our meeting with Père Philippe on Friday afternoon. Although this father, who has been a monk for 66 years, has long passed retirement age, he still finds the strength and joy to continue. Not only to continue praying and celebrating, or to provide guests with information about the church building. He also does not refrain from seasoning his guided tour with spiritual reflections on God’s love and his Sehnsucht for that love.

Rhythm of the prayers

And so the four days slipped by. As the hours passed and we gradually became accustomed to the rhythm of the prayers, we came ever closer to understanding what was really taking place. The alien murmuring in a distant corner of the building slowly transformed into the familiar sound of beautiful prayers. Prayers that simply invite you to be carried along on the undulating sounds of the monks’ chant. Prayers that were spoken long before we arrived and will continue to be spoken long after we have left. We were allowed to join that stream of prayer for only a brief moment. Yet it was a deeply enriching moment.

Pieter Camfferman